Trend: It’s time to go to a high -level custom -made T -shirt

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Some time ago, Faye Wong’s royal makeup artist Zing took a photo of high -end custom clothes on the Xiaohongshu.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Some netizens immediately left a message underneath: 嚯 ~ You should be the first person to open the box.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Although this is exaggerated, it is not false. Even on the little red book of the taurus everywhere,

There are indeed few people who take high clothes.

Explain it:

The so -called HAUTE COouture is a top service in the fashion industry.

There are only few luxury brands in the world that can be approved for advanced customized business, and these high -definition clothes

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Not selling in the counter everyday

If necessary, you must contact the brand’s senior customization departments for exclusive services.

△ Advanced custom clothes are generally gorgeous visible to the naked eye, and the clothing in the counter is not a level.

Therefore, there are rumors on the rivers and lakes that there are only more than 2,000 customers in the world’s high -level custom fashion.

I don’t think it’s because there are too few people who can afford money, but because of the past

The threshold for the use of these advanced custom clothes is too high.

△ Because of luxury, many advanced custom clothes are often wearing the red carpet by stars

Huang Weiwen once had a column “Buy a million shirts or buy a floor? 》 (Of course, the price is now available, and I can’t buy it.) I wrote it like this:

“(Buying high -danger) Time is a big investment, and it is the most difficult occasion to think about it.

Company anniversary dinner? Go to drink? Fall Volar? Shadow family portrait? Or just like the fate of most of the beautiful shirts in your wardrobe, wear a mirror at home in the middle of the night, and then take off? “

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

In other words, for most of us, even if you can barely save money, it is

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Is it necessary to buy such gorgeous clothes

, Is the biggest problem.

△ A few days ago, the skydiving coach Domitille Kiger wore high -level custom clothes to parachute and was regarded as behavioral art

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

So, in such a background,

The new generation of advanced customization came.

Last week, Balenciaga held its own 50th season’s high -level custom show in Paris.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

This show is not like many advanced custom shows in our previous impression,

It is full of heavy work elements visible to the naked eye.

On the contrary, the high -definition clothes on the show look very simple, so this kind of 👇

This kind of 👇

And this kind of 👇

At first glance, it seems like the street style clothes in their counter? Intersection

In the impression of many young people today, Balenciaga is a luxury street representative.

But in fact, when Cristóbal Balenciaga himself founded the brand,

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Started with advanced customization.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Balenciaga’s first name was Balenciaga Couture

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

However, the designers did not only make people wear gorgeous, but

Because many fashions really have to be customized according to the figure of the person to look good.

For example, Balenciaga has a masterpiece called Hip-LENGTH JACKET. This short jacket is completely slim from the front, but the back is loose.

It is like a sculpture that must be tailored by people to show the most perfect effect 👇

In addition, designers also

Will re -customize the fabric according to the effect you want

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

, Fundamentally solving the problem of how to become more perfect.

Balenciaga himself customized a fabric named Gazar. It seemed as light as silk, with the luster of petals, but actually very hard, and could reproduce the silhouette of the petals.

It is conceivable,

Such a creative method is naturally high.

Later, with the development of industrial technology, many brands began to use batch production to make fashion. This “garment” as long as the clothes are roughly divided into several standard size, so that customers can choose the one that they are roughly worn (now now (now now The clothes sold in luxury counter belong to this).

Because the cost was greatly reduced, and the sales volume naturally increased, so the high fashion industry played a price war silently.

But Balenciaga believes that this method cannot show the best effect. After discouraged,

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Decision will not be designed directly in 1968.

△ Cristóbal Balenciaga himself

Later, the advanced customization slowly turned into a legendary top service. In order to highlight the difference between it and the garment, the brands also began to make high -definition clothes more and more gorgeous. fare.

This is probably

And why, these amazing clothes are now difficult to use in daily life.

In fact, if you think about it, it is not that our daily clothes do not need high -level customization, but because it does not adopt a high -definition method, the cost is lower.

So after 53 years after Balenciaga retired, the scene just appeared:

Now creative director Demna

Restart the business of the old man before retirement

, Directly named this show the 50th Balenciaga Advanced Custom Show.

△ The location of the show is also selected in Balenciaga’s salon of the year

However, the high -definition skills of the year were brought to re -production

Today, jeans, down jackets, and even jackets are popular in the world.

△ Left: Balenciaga Advanced Custom Show in the 1950s; right: Balenciaga Advanced Custom Show in Season 50 in 2021

I have written before that in fact, many Hollywood stars have now been handed over to the advanced tailor after buying it to re -quantify the re -revision.

And this season’s Balenciaga is high

There are t -shirts that can be customized

It can also save them a lot of things.

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

So I think

This gameplay may also be the general trend.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

It may not be long after it may not be cool enough to make a big -name LOGO’s clothes. To make a high -profile street outfit to shock.

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Department

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Column background

So, before this trend began to become popular, let’s first understand a question that many people still exist in their hearts:

Since these clothes look no different from daily, then

Where is the advanced customization process? Intersection

01 Tailor -cut building silhouette

In fact, many senior custom works of Balenciaga now open Balenciaga, you will find that although they are beautiful, they are not complicated at all.

Because he himself depends on

Exquisite tailoring skills

And famous. You can do not rely on the lining support, so that the skirt is pure with scissors and needle threads.

△ Left: Balenciaga’s mountain collection, this wedding dress only uses two pieces of tailoring, and three sutures create this three -dimensional effect; right: Demna this season pays tribute to this work. Still beautiful

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Coco Chanel used to poison tongue road: “Balenciaga is a real high -level custom master, knowing how to taste, cut, sew, and compared with him, many others are just designing clothes (on paper).”

The wonderful thing is that although the design of Balenciaga is very concise, because the silhouette is enough, it is said that the previous ladies wearing the clothes he made,

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Can always be the focus of attention in social occasions.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ The design of Balenciaga in the 1950s, very pioneer

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

then,

Demna inherits and highlights this.

Although the high -definition clothes of this season also look simple, they all have exquisite three -dimensional silhouettes, which are completely achieved by tailoring.

For example, he will combine the denim suit with the silhouette of the oriental kimono to sew the effect of three -dimensional shoulders, which can just show a beautiful swan neck.

The T -shirt also uses the least stitching to make beautiful outlines, which can modify the shape without a dead end.

△ Its essence is also the neckline and cuffs. It is said that Demna spent several months to find the best angle and lines

Of course, this way of cutting

It must be based on the tailor -made basis

, Follow the body of each wearer’s own, which is good enough.

02 Fabrics that are regardless of cost

On the high -end custom show, there will often be a complete list for guests, which will list the fabrics and details of each gorgeous clothes in detail.

Balenciaga is certainly no exception this season.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series of each single product

It can be seen from the list that although it is all common types of clothes, because

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

No need to be limited by cost

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Each fabric is used to wear the best effect.

For example, a pure black bottoming shirt must choose the most precious Vicuna alpaca fabric, which is as light and breathable as the yarn, but it is enough to keep warm.

Denim fabrics are hand -woven by craftsmen in Osaka, Japan.

The glittering slim skirt is made of Swarovski Crystal Fangs.

Walking on the road flashed

It’s enough to let the whole street notice

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Effects 👇

All the details are not sloppy. The suits are made of silver, and the buttons are used for agate.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

For comfort,

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Even cashmere fabrics were used in the invisible charge lining.

03 The version of the version of the top craftsmanship

Another great benefit to choose this method of premium customization is that it can make your creativity be completed by the best workshop in the world.

For example, all the suit on Balenciaga Gao Dingxiu is a tailor shop that has been authorized by the Royal British

Huntsman

Cooperation (I just wrote this store two weeks ago, and those who are interested can go back and see).

△ Balenciaga I have worn in Hutsman customized in Hutsman

Previous advanced customization

In fact

Never customized a suit for men.

Men want to wear advanced fashion, either they have to go to Savile Row, London, and choose some of the traditional Chinese models.

Either you have to go to the luxury store to pick some very fashionable clothing, and then take the tailor shop to your own size.

but

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Demna broke this this time.

The high -definition suit he designed uses a more fashionable street version, but it is handed over to the oldest suit customized shop on Savile Row to make tailor -made clothes.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

These moderators with decades of experience,

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Use a suit to sew the trendy street style of the fashion teenagers with the technique of making a suit for Prince Charles

, Let the waistline and wide -leg trousers of each piece of clothing are appropriate.

certainly,

These suits are not actually limited with gender

Girls can become fashionable and decent.

04 technology that keeps pace with the times

Although the skills of inheritance are very important for Gao Ding, it is not so nostalgic for everything.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

If it were not for modern technology progress

Many designs of this show cannot be completed.

For example, the “crocodile skin” wide -leg pants below

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

In fact, it is not the real crocodile skin, but it

First arrange the mesh leather pattern with a computer program

Then use the cowhide to stitch it by hand to simulate the texture of the crocodile.

And the following “bathrobe” that looks fluffy 👇

Actually a leather coat?

It uses a leading embroidery technology and matched with the processed carved technology to treat leather fabrics into a plush texture.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

This design method makes the logic of high -level customization in turn in reverse:

The overall passes a laziness and casual taste.

05 Daily and gorgeous dual choices

Perhaps, in the future, only from the visual perception, you can also recognize which street style clothes are customized.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Because demna will make a lot of clothes around

A variety of possibilities have been designed.

Daily Busudi can only wear the set inside. When attending important occasions, remember to put on a special customized gorgeous shawl, and immediately taste a different taste.

The inspiration of these shawls came from Balenciaga’s early dress design.

Today, it is particularly fitted by modern fashion. The silk that adds the metal thread can not only shine with elegant luster, but also accumulate a sense of luxury.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

In addition, demna is cleverly

Combining some street jackets and dresses directly.

These clothes have both attributes: “luxury” and “daily”, and they have no problem to wear dating or dance.

06 can be regarded as the concept of art

Although we look back at Balenciga’s own work now, we will feel simple, modern and powerful.

But under the aesthetic context of that year, these advanced clothes

Often being rated as “monster” by fashion commentators

Essence

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Imagine that in the 1950s and 1960s, when you saw such a dress, what would you feel like to think

Probably because the high -definition clothes are not for mass production, without selling sales, Balenciaga can always test the flip shape from her own imagination.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Later, these clothes that broke the imagination were continuously borrowed by future generations, and Balenciaga himself

Most of the original works were used as artworks and were collected into the museum.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ There are many Balenciaga works in the V & A Museum in London

Back to this show again, you will find that Demna uses a lot of creativity as crazy as that year.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

He combined the red evening dress skirt and charge clothes and put on the male model.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series

It is worth mentioning that don’t look at Demna’s strange street style design every day, but he himself graduated from Antwerp Royal College.

This school is famous for being extremely difficult to obtain a graduation certificate.

The students’ artistic literacy requirements are very high.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

△ Demna (right) instructor, Walter Van Beirendonck, one of Antwerp’s six gentlemen (left), also came to see the show to support his works this time

so we

May wish to see these designs from another angle.

For example, the hat on this big show, if you look at it from a daily perspective, you may feel like a lampshade.

△ This hat is made by the famous hat master Phlip TREACY

But if you see it as a test of the future world,

As an artistic concept, it is a lot interesting,

Very worth collecting.

After all, the progress of the world always relies on bold tests to promote it. Why not try it?

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

at last,

According to Demna himself,

Balenciaga

New high -definition fashion price is divided into many sections

Some of them are not as expensive as high as the gorgeous to the red carpet.

Before this big show was released, he mentioned such a paragraph in an interview with Tim Balzks:

“I don’t want to make the advanced customization completely like before. The previous high -definitions often refuse them because of the customer’s identity.

This kind of aristocratic threshold may now seem to be a bit outdated

Essence “

△ Kan Ye came to see Balenciaga’s Gao Dingxiu this time, and wearing Gap directly, no one stopped

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

The initial advanced customization, not only the customer itself, but also

Even designers were mostly born of nobles.

It is not because the industry itself has strong discrimination.

But

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Because the requirements of this business are very high in aesthetic and taste

In the early years, if they had not received good education and got the outstanding taste of ears from the family, they would not be able to appreciate these items that add icing on the life.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

But the interesting thing is,

Balenciaga is one of the exceptions of that era.

He was born in a small fishing village in Spain. His father was a fisherman. After his death, his mother made a tailor and pulled a few children alone.

When you grow up in this environment, how can you have such a good taste?

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Balenciaga’s biography revealed that everything had to thank him when he was working with his mother at home in his client, so that he was able to appreciate the magazines that introduced advanced fashion and made wonderful decoration and art.

After adulthood, he was appreciated for his excellent tailoring skills. He was sponsored to open his own small housing house in Paris, and the result was red.

△ Left is Cristóbal Balenciaga himself

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Facts also prove that birth does not mean anything.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

Balenciaga eventually became one of the most respected designers in that era, and Mr. Dior even felt that he was “the master of us all”.

趋势:是时候去高级定制一件大牌T恤了

On the day he died, “Women’s Daily” wrote directly in the front version of the headline: “The king is dead.”

△ Balenciaga’s biography is called “The Master of US All”

From this point of view, in the era of social networks, the knowledge and aesthetics and education that have been difficult to obtain seem to be less difficult.

Nowadays, it is not only the ladies who attended the Yuanyuan Dance to have the ability to appreciate beauty.

Is it indeed as Demna said, the original aristocratic threshold has long become unable to review it?

Everything is given to time to judge.

(Editorial Assistant in this issue: DORIS)

△ Season 50 Balenciaga Advanced Customization Series