British windbreaker, I fell in love with “single -breasted”
The division of single and double deductions is not enough to talk about it in a content.
The “single -breasted” here actually refers to a brand.
When it comes to British trench coats, we think of Burberry, Barbour, and Aquascutum. Among them, the Trench Coat “堑 style” of the double -breasted Trench Coat is the deepest look in everyone.
However, if you are already familiar with Trench Coat and you can’t get more styles and fresh styles, you may wish to turn your eyes to a single deduction.
Compared with the double -breasted buckle, many people think that the single buckle seems too simple and direct, and there is no highlight.
But is this really the case?
Today we will use a single -breasted windbreaker brand brand
For the opportunity, to understand the fun of single -breasted trench coats.
There is no precise statement for the birth time of the windbreaker. There is no exact statement. One view is about 100 years before a war, that is, after 1814.
Mackintosh was born in 1823. This qualification is longer than the famous Burberry, and before it, Mackintosh is the main supplier of the British army’s waterproof trench coat.
At that time, the trench coat was not like Trench Coat.
Many articles also say that Mackintosh has evolved Trench Coat, which is actually barely reluctant.
According to the “The Fashion Dictionary” explanation, Trench Coat’s belonging is mainly a dispute between Aquascutum and Burberry.
And Mackintosh was originally the most simple single -breasted trench coat.
However, Mackintosh does have a pivotal position in the history of the windbreaker, laying a solid foundation for the development of this item.
For example, common on trench coats
Shoulder sleeve structure
Design is from it.
Mackintosh was created by the Scottish Charles Macintosh.
Under an accidental opportunity, he found that the rubber liquid was applied to the clothes and could have excellent waterproof effect.
According to this, Charles Macintosh adds a layer of natural rubber between the two layers of fabrics, and then creates a bonding rubber fabric. Since then
Not only that, he also made a rubber tape seam of every stitching of the windbreaker, claiming that it could reach 100% waterproof.
So fundamentally, Mackintosh fits the essence of “windbreaker”.
The first Mackintosh was only provided to the British police and the army as a uniform, and then gradually flowed into the people and was sought after.
With more people wearing, Mackintosh has also exposed many problems.
Although the fabric is added to the rubber layer, the waterproofness is up, but the heat dissipation and breathability are not enough, and after a long period of sun, the rubber will become hard and accompanied by a strong pungent smell.
Until 1943, Charles Macintosh encountered Thomas Hancock, who was the father of the British rubber industry. It used the method of rubber vulcanization to solve many problems.
On the version,
Mac Coat is a straight version, with the length of the left and right knees, and the single slit is opened behind the hem.
Essence In fact, the Balmacaan Coat style that Mac Coat often talks about it is quite close, and we will talk about their differences later.
However, at this time Burberry caught up.
The Gabardine Wasana used by Burberry, which is a better choice compared to the Macintosh at that time, takes into account waterproof and breathable, and it will be better.
From this, Mackintosh ushered in a period of decline.
By the 1980s, the appearance of a thinner waterproof fabric GORE-TEX was a heavy blow to Mackintosh.
Coupled with the conservative strategy of brand operations at that time, insisting on processed business, without setting up a specialty store, it also led the brand to miss the excellent development opportunity and lag far behind Burberry.
After several times, it was finally authorized by the Sanyang Chamber of Commerce in Japan in 2007. It was also during this period that the brand had its first shop and a transfer.
It is worth mentioning that the Sanyang Chamber of Commerce is also the authorized dealer of Burberry in Japan, but Sanyang’s control of Mackintosh will be higher and can carry out independent research and development projects.
To a large extent, the Japanese saved Mackintosh.
Take a closer look, you can find that, compared with Burberry, in fact, the Japanese will love Mackintosh more, including “Popeye” and “Men’s Fudge”, which is a single -breasted trench coat LOOK, most of which we often see. Most All from the brand.
▲ “Men’s Fudge”
In this reason, Ye Zi’s personal analysis believes that it should be a conservative simple style of Mackintosh, which may be easier to impress the aesthetic concept of Japanese people.
Moreover, the comparison of Trench Coat and Mackintosh, it is undoubtedly the latter that can be more adapted to Asians who are generally not so tall. For us, this is also a highlight of the brand.
To this end, Mackintosh also developed two sub -line Mackintosh Philosophy and Mackintosh London.
Many Japanese people first knew the auxiliary line before they knew the main line.
Philosophy’s style is more like a young and simple Japanese brand, while London is more mature. Although these two sub -lines have trench coat items, in the final analysis, they still belong to the entire category brand, and the quality is not as particular as the main line. Essence
If you want to find a trench coat that you still feel “heart -to -heart” after a few years, then the main line of Mackintosh will undoubtedly satisfy you.
It is true that Mackintosh is not as famous as Burberry, and you will not get more brand recognition from it.
Ye Zi has always felt that Mackintosh is relatively “conservative”, even in recent years it has jointly co -branded with some brands.
However, this “conservative” is not necessarily derogatory.
There is no road to fashion brands, so that Mackintosh is well retained, the classic and craft characteristics of the brand as a windbreaker jacket
At this point, it is similar to Barbour.
Until now, Mackintosh (main line) has insisted on making handmade skills, handmade sewing and tailoring, and traditional rubber seams, which extended the brand’s long and essence.
Of course, Mackintosh’s trench coat is of course not only a single deduction. We can also see the familiar double -breasted Trench Coat.
And on the fabric, in addition to the traditional rubber adhesion cotton fabric, Mackintosh also developed in addition to the three -layer cotton material, instead of the original middle rubber layer with cotton cloth. Essence
However, Ye Zi personally prefers Mac Coat, which is more recommended by single -breasted buckles. You can find Mackintosh’s more unique trench coat beauty in it.
The brand’s iconic Mac Coat is full of Britishism, and the seemingly conservative surface is everywhere.
Although the single -breasted Mac Coat does not have much detail structure, its fabric has the characteristics of “not spread”, plus its straight silhouette, after cutting
It shows the sharp and straight lines, because there is no extra fine structure, the overall looks very simple and powerful
, Very charming.
The leaf above also said, Mac Coat looked like Balmacaan Coat, which often said.
But they are actually different.
Although both are single buckles, the Mac Coat belongs to a trench coat. Balmacaan Coat is more directed to a class of coats. When they are buckled up, Mac Coat will only show the first butt, others, others, others They are all hidden design, and the classic Balmacaan Coat is more open button.
▲ Mac Coat
▲ Balmacaan Coat
In addition, Mac Coat will add a button belt to the collar. The purpose is to stand up and fix the collar, which can deal with weather such as wind and rain.
In addition, Mackintosh also has many interesting style jackets, which is worth paying attention to.
You can think of it as a Mac Coat’s hooded style, adding a capable cap, the fabric is no longer a bonding rubber, but an breathable waterproof film is added to the middle layer, which is more like a one. Raincoat.
In terms of the overall style, because the hat is added, Dunoon Hood is not as good as Mac Coat, and it is much softer.
You can think of it as a coat style of the Mac Coat. The difference is that the rear hem of the Blackridge is double slit. It is made of wool, cashmere and other flower fabrics, not a bonding material.
Therefore, the texture of Blackridge is also more delicate and thicker than the Mac Coat, but this also weakened the original line of sharp lines.
In recent years, Mackintosh has also begun to cooperate with many designers and brands, aiming to innovate and sharp -cut brand style image.
In 2017, Mackintosh and the Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov, a Bulgarian designer of the niche shoes brand Hoka One One, launched the capsule series
And he is the creative director.
The first Mackintosh 0001, which was launched for the first time, changed the previous old -fashioned British, and used the design elements such as renovation windbreaker and glue, which showed high -end British rock style and further brought diversified fashionable attributes to Mackintosh.
▲ MACKINTOSH 0001
Also launched with Jil Sander last year
Although the entire series is dominated by Jil Sander, it also blesses the typical adhesive rubber fabrics of the brand, as well as its iconic single -breasted Mac Coat trench coat, reinterpreting Mackintosh with minimalism. The characteristics of the windbreaker have a stronger natural atmosphere.
Well, after watching Mackintosh, will you consider such a single buckle when choosing a trench coat?