“Hiding” into the alley, only love hot girls, fast fashion BM explosion is not only here


Written article | Edit Li Kexin | Bao School Thousand

“Consumption circles” are becoming more and more serious. When something is red in one circle, the other circle may be unheard of.

In recently, Brandy Melville, a clothing shop in Sanlitun, has been fermenting on the Internet. Those who are familiar with it have already gone to the store to “worship”; those who are not familiar with it may be curious about the girl in the store.

Short -waist shirt, “Super A” hot pants short skirt, sloppy body, slender thin legs, swaying in the store. And this is the effect that Brandy Melville wants to achieve: all clothes have only one size S, which directly refuses the fat girl.

There are even “BM girls height and weight tables” on the Internet. According to their standards, they are 160cm tall and their body is 86 pounds. The height of more than 1.7 meters can reach 102 pounds.

This Italian fast fashion brand, even relying on its own power, directly evolved a brand name into a style symbol of unlimited brand -BM wind. The girls wearing this type of clothing are also automatically classified as the same camp.

Regardless of the intention or unintentional Brandy Melville, it uses naked numbers to divide “people with clothes.” When the thinness is cut, it is burned in this summer, but essentially allows “body anxiety” to magnify, and some of the sounds of questioningy Melville are getting louder.

The hot “four anti -common sense”

Unlike traditional fast fashion, Brandy Melville has too many different operations.

First, the store’s location does not go to traditional shopping malls, and choose a hidden alley. This is the case in Shanghai stores, and so is the Beijing store.

The Shanghai store opened in the alley of Changle Road, and it just opened the door for a while. The Beijing store is hidden in the electromechanical courtyard opposite Sanlitun Yingke Center. The surrounding “neighbor” is a small bar with different shapes. To enter the store, you need to enter the second floor through a long staircase.

The store style is extremely uniform. It looks like a small art museum outside the store. It is more like a warehouse in the store. Two -layer high -small houses, white and gray are the main color, extremely simple and refreshing; factory wind ceilings and lighting without modification have greatly compressed the decoration cost.

The product style is also extremely distinct: the color tone is mainly white, gray blue, and gray powder with low saturation. The patterns are multi -fused with floral or stripes, and the fabrics are pure cotton, knitted, and hemp. The most important point is that the product is short, small, and mini. For more conservative people, it is very similar to seeing home clothes that dare to wear at home.

Brandy Melville in the store is full of two styles outside the store | DoneWS

Second, all the clothes are only the size of the “average”, but the average code of Brandy Melville is not the style of Oversized, mostly equivalent to the popular S or XS.

Third, the pricing strategy of the product is not a common 126RMB and 128RMB, but directly “scratch zero”, 100, 120, 140, 200, and 200, which is very similar to the price of bargaining with the owner. The feeling of occupying cheap.

Finally, it is also worthy of attention. Brandy Melville’s employees are not long -term workers that sign a labor contract, but the cost of part -time and part -time jobs is not low. According to the sharing of part -time employees in social media, most of the hourly salary is 70 before tax 70 before tax. About 80 yuan.

“Different employees are different, maybe according to appearance, experience, etc.”, the clerk Ivy told DoneWS (ID: IlovedOnews), Brandy Melville set the hourly salary of 70 yuan, 60 after tax after tax Yuan, the main work is stacking clothes. “Part -time jobs in SKP luxury stores are only more than 20 yuan per hour. It belongs to the ordinary hourly salary of Beijing hours. Most of Starbucks, H & M, and MUJI also follow this standard.”

“Although there are no labor contracts, Brandy Melville’s benefits are very good. Workers in the store, Yiyun mineral water is not limited, lunch is eaten in the restaurant near the store, the manager is invited, and the restaurants near Sanlitun are quite good. It has been made up in the past two years, “Ivy said.

In addition, each part -time employee can also choose two clothes, unlimited prices and styles, and the working hours are relatively free, not every day, and there is no mandatory request time. Just work.

The most eye -catching thing is that Brandy Melville’s waiter is not only tall, but also very outstanding. These beautiful women and handsome photos have even started to circulate online. “Highly unified.

Undoubtedly, these waiters are both employees and also act as consumer characters and turn them into a part of Brandy Melville brand marketing.

Brandy Melville’s recruitment conditions are simple and direct. In the final analysis, it is high requirements for the face value. “In addition to filling in the basic information, you will ask a full body photo and simply description of the style of dressing.” Xin Yue said.

Xinyue is the fresh graduate of the 2017 Beijing Film Academy and the first batch of employees at the Beijing Store of Brandy Melville. According to her sharing on social media, in September last year, she submitted her resume after learning about the recruitment information, and received a recovery reply the next day. Even if her height is 167cm, it is indeed the “short” among the clerk, “the first time I saw a girl above 170cm more than a girl gathered together.”

If you arrive at the Brandy Melville store, you may see this scene from time to time: the waiter stacked his clothes slowly, as if waiting for being sneak shot, and it is indeed many times, many shots will press the shutter to them.

Brandy Melville clerk in the netizen lens | DoneWS drawing

Hot and criticized

The “Matslike” Brandy Melville, obviously the popular fast fashion, divides the obvious boundaries.

But when all brands are advocating “tolerance”, the single exclusive aesthetics emphasized by Brandy Melville has become the target of criticism.

“This size policy implies that the S code is the ideal size. Girls in other sizes are unpopular. This is extremely harmful to women’s self -esteem.” “If you want to be a qualified BM girl, the premise is to lose weight. This value judgment is too single, which is equivalent to dividing the person’s body to divide three or six nine “,” This is clearly a materialized woman, inducing women for unhealthy diet “…

This can’t help but want to ask, there is no deformity aesthetic in BM wind? Is it really to show off?

“I think it’s very weird, because we know that there are many brands who are specially made of large -size women’s clothing, and no girls in small size jump out and say that your brand is discriminatory. It is even more ridiculous to think that BM discriminates against large size girls. It’s not easy to buy clothes, don’t you wear clothes? “Olivia, who worked in a law firm, said with emotion.

Olivia is relatively thin and claims to be “girls with super small skeleton”. She bluntly said that it is difficult to buy clothes by herself. I know how difficult it is to buy clothes to buy clothes and shoes. These brands are not very friendly to our little girls. ZARA’s minimum size is also at 165 S code, but it is still loose and down. “

“In the past two years, ‘sexy’ and ‘thin’ seem to have become the concept of two people shouting. It seems that it has become a red line that cannot be stepped on in the fashion circle. Dog blood poured. “Earlier, because Victoria’s Secret involved” materialized women “and preaching the definition of” perfect women “, it was lonely, and Olivia felt that it was now” a bit of things that must be reversed. “

“I think different brands can have different concepts, it can advocate sexy, or it can be cold. Each person can choose a brand that considers itself to meet your own fashion or aesthetic concepts. There is no need to respect or despise a certain brain “A concept”, Olivia said, “Aesthetic is right or wrong, and there is no need to impose the meaning other than the trend.”

“Putting on BM can indeed show distinctiveness, but it does not mean that it is equivalent to the” superiority “. Those who like to wear neutral clothing are also different, but no one thinks this is a kind of showing off.” After the 95th, the fat girl Candy was a loyal fan of Brandy Melville. In her opinion, people with unconfident people often have such evaluations.

“I don’t understand why the online breath is very heavy now, and many people may not even really go to the store. Although the BM is the concept of One Size, it is not a must -have for the minimum size girls. It also has a lot of loose clothes. For example, I also wear sweaters and guards. Some small size clothes, because of great elasticity, are still dressed, but the small vests may become short underwear. “Candy jokes.

“Every time I go to BM, I crowded in a group of super slender girls to pick clothes together, but I felt narcissistic that I put on BM as a hot girl himself. Girls also have the charm of self -confidence and bravery. “Candy concluded,” It is to please herself, and at the beginning, it is a limitation at all. “

“A height of rising to malformations or endangering girls’ health is implicit behind it, that is, everyone is unreasonable, but in fact most young people have their own aesthetics, and they can also make themselves on their own health. Judgment, not the outside world to make a judgment for him “, and Shen Wen, who has been working in the clothing industry for many years, told DoneWS.

Shen Wen believes that Brandy Melville’s policy is not satisfied with everyone, but it may accidentally gain more people to join. It first allows small girls who can’t buy fit clothes, and people who are pursuing thin figures to build loyal and close connections with them; in addition, many girls in China are becoming more confident and more and more. Slenderness dares to reveal itself to the outside world, but even more prominent brand attractiveness.

“Different brands adapt to different people, and BM wind may have passed for a while,” in Shenwen’s view, the market will eventually make choices.

Naked traffic brand

In 2016, the well -known American blog media “Business Insider” listed Brandy Melville as one of the 33 subversive retail brands. However, instead of regarding it as a retail brand, it may be more appropriate to see it as a traffic brand in the new consumption era.

Brandy Melville was founded in 1970, but so far only only a hundred physical stores. Compared with thousands of stores in H & M and Zara, offline channels are significantly too small. Brandy Melville once said that most of its turnover comes from digital sales channels, not physical stores.

In other words, Brandy Melville’s offline stores have more experience and consolidate the brand image, and it is no wonder that offline channels expand such slowly. However, even the 50 -year “old name” has just hit the dividend pulse of the new era.

It is similar to the rise of new consumer brands at the moment, and it has also been spread through social media, but the play is different. In 2019, Brandy Melville opened the official website of China. Since then, he has settled in Weibo and Xiaohong Book platform. Although it has also opened a WeChat public account, it has not been released on the public account. Obviously, Brandy Melville has clear cognition and planning for the Chinese market traffic platform.

However, if you take the content operation rules of the social media to examine Brandy Melville, you will feel that it does not seem to be “understanding the rules”: there is no gimmick text, no cross -border joint activities, no exquisite photos, every content, every content The composition is very simple -a label of a photo and #brandy Melville#.

Brandy Melville’s official Weibo and Xiaohongshu account screenshot | DoneWS drawing

Because of everything, Brandy Melville’s marketing does not rely on itself, but the public. “Brandy Melville has created a marketing paradigm that is only social and not advertising.” A Internet marketing practitioner summarizes that Brandy Melville mainly uses three celebrities’ marketing methods:

One is the same star, leveraging the fan group. Among the star private services such as Ouyang Nana and Yang Mi, BM’s clothing appears; the other is KOL (Key Opinion Leader, key opinion leader)/KOC (Key Opinion Consumerr , Consumer Opinions) Consumers are mainly based on Xiaohongshu and Weibo, linking a large number of KOL, KOC, and amateur to capture consumer minds; there is also KOS cultivation.

“KOS is Key Opinion Sales, key opinion sales. Brandy Melville trained the clerk to become an Internet celebrity. Internet celebrities successfully brought goods for the brand because they were labeled with BM tags. The marketing practitioners further explained.

In other words, Brandy Melville does not use traditional advertising, and there are no professional advertising models. Pictures spread on social media look like ordinary girls’ daily life photos, thus trying to create a sense of authenticity and naturalness.

However, compared with foreign popularity, Brandy Melville’s response in China remains to be verified.

It is reported that Brandy Melville’s official Instagram account has 3.88 million fans, and the daily interaction rate far exceeds H & M and Zara; and there are 12,000 labels about “Brandy Girl”.

Looking at the country again, Brandy Melville’s official Weibo fan is 280,000, Xiaohongshu is 360,000, but the praise and interaction rate of Weibo tweets are not high;There are 20,000+notes.

From an industry perspective, Brandy Melville’s business strategy also eliminates the management and inventory problems brought by complex size and massive SKU. At the same time, the costs such as production and marketing have also been reduced, thereby maintaining more cheap sales.

As fast fashion brands such as TOPSHOP, New Look, Forever 21 have withdrawn from the Chinese market. The fast fashion industry also urgently needs fresh appearance, but no matter how changes, they still cannot escape the low -quality and low -quality blame.

As for how long the Brandy Melville can be popular, it depends on the flow trend of the Chinese market and the growth of user scale.

This article comes from DONEWS